The Sheer Finesse of Fetherston

Working to a recipe has never been Chris Lawrence's forte. The Yarra Valley-based winemaker, who with wife Camille Koll co-founded Fetherston in 2015, spent a decade and a half in professional kitchens before pursuing wine. But it was [great] wine's inherent creative element – and the alchemy of texture and flavour – that set Chris on a winemaking path.

“The main reason we started Fetherston was that the idea of working in a large winery, to a winemaker's recipe, didn't interest me,“ explains Chris. “After years of cooking and utilising that creative side, I wanted to make captivating wines we believed in, that we want to drink, with varieties that are interesting.”

Camille, whose background at Chandon provides a perfect foil to Chris‘ skillset, grew up in Hoddles Creek, where the pair purchased a 16ha plot in 2022. The site will bear fruit eventually, but until then we love seeing the broad scope of some of Victoria's most revered vineyards embodied in the Fetherston wines.

The name Fetherston pays homage to Chris‘ late grandfather Henry, and late mother Janet, both Fetherstons. A horticulturist and botanist respectively, the family's love of plants runs in their blood and is paid tribute each year via the sensational Botanical range of wines, and Chris‘ affinity for viticulture.

We absolutely adore the Fetherston range, which represents what we believe to be some of the most incredible value, characterful and flavour-driven suite of wines from the Yarra.

Fetherston Magnolia Albarino 2022 92 Points, The Wine Front

100% albariño sourced from the Bettio vineyard, King Valley.

Six days‘ skin contact and natural wild yeast fermentation. Pressed to neutral French oak. Aged on lees for four months.

“Loads of character here, elevating the variety nicely. Preserved lemon, ginger notes, slightly buttery element to texture and flavour in a way, some quince paste character too. Feels good to sip on, quietly complex, pushing to medium weight yet refreshing. Ticking boxes.” – Mike Bennie

Fetherston Iris Chardonnay 2022 93 Points, The Wine Front

Hand-picked from four Yarra Valley sites (Coldstream, Gembrook, Steels Creek, Healesville).

Whole bunch pressed, wild yeast fermented in French oak (10% new). Seven months‘ maturation.

“Aromas are packed tightly, with toast and almond blossom, pink grapefruit, sage, nutmeg. Solid start lingering mostly in the savoury-spicy zone. Acidity is amazing, so high, cleansing, vibrating and twisting the tongue. Talcum powder fine texture to finish and more of the pure grapefruit pith and zest too. Great stuff, needed a moment to open up.” – Kasia Sobiesiak

Fetherston Peony Nebbiolo Rosé 2022 93 Points, Halliday Wine Companion

100% nebbiolo sourced from Pyrenees‘ famed Malakoff Estate vineyard.

Whole bunch pressed to neutral French oak, wild fermentation at 17C. Matured on lees for five months prior to bottling on the first day of spring. 

“A single-vineyard wine. Whole-bunch pressed to neutral French barriques and fermented wild. A light, bright salmon pink. Fragrant with sour cherries, dried herbs and rose petals. Dry with a saline finish, this moreish wine would work well as either an aperitif or food wine in warm weather.” – Philip Rich

Fetherston Fungi Pinot Noir 2023 92 Points, The Wine Front

70% MV6, 30% 667 clones hand-picked from six Yarra Valley sites.

10% whole bunches, wild fermented in numerous small batches. MLF and eight months‘ maturation in French oak (14% new) prior to bottling.

“Raspberry, strawberry, mint and spice. This is light in body, and kind of frisky, but it delivers plenty of pinot flavour, light peppery and pumice stone grip, lively and juicy, with a spicy red fruited finish of excellent length. Beautifully made and lovely to drink. I recommend it.” – Gary Walsh

Fetherston Sakura Syrah Nebbiolo 2023

60% syrah, 40% nebbiolo, all sourced from the Malakoff Estate vineyard in Pyrenees.

Syrah was handpicked on April 12, five days cold soak, pressed off skins to neutral French barriques and puncheons. Nebbiolo was handpicked on May 10, destemmed and fermented in large format oak. Pressed off skins after 19 days to neutral barriques. Blended and bottled in December 2023.

A characterful, charismatic wine loaded with perfumes of black cherry, leather, allspice and black fruits. There's silky sweetness from the syrah and earthy savouriness from the nebbiolo, all held together by fine, web-like tannins and fresh natural acidity.

Fetherston Camellia Cabernet Malbec 2022 93 Points, The Wine Front 93 Points, Halliday

87% cabernet sauvignon sourced from Yering Grange; 13% malbec from Sunshine Creek.

Destemmed, whole berry wild fermentation prior to pressing to second-use French oak barriques. Three months‘ maturation prior to bottling. 

“Very elegant mix of fruit, dark cherry, blackberry and blackcurrant. Hints of leather, cedar, chocolate and mint, all comfortably sit atop. It has a velvety texture with ripe bright fruit rolling along. Finishes on a finely ground coffee and blackcurrant lift of acidity. Medium-bodied at most and oh-so-very elegant. Great value.” – Kasia Sobiesiak

Fetherston Estate Chardonnay 2021 95 Points, Halliday Wine Companion

Sourced from the Swallowfield vineyard, Gembrook.

Whole bunch pressed, fermented in French oak puncheons (30% new). Ten months on lees in barrel prior to bottling.

This has immediate appeal with its white peach, nectarine and grilled cashew notes. Energetic, with those aforementioned stone fruits, grapefruit and a hint of fresh vanilla bean, this finishes pithy and long. Impeccably balanced. A lovely wine.”  – Philip Rich

Fetherston Estate Pinot Noir 2022 94 Points, The Wine Front

100% MV6 sourced from the Hutchinson (Yarra Glen) and Swallowfield (Gembrook) vineyards.

15% whole bunches, fermented with wild yeast. Matured in French oak, 28% new.  

Cherry, red fruit, some blood orange, spice, mint, and perfume. It’s medium-bodied, and quite firm in tannin, and don’t mind me, but it has a bit of a nebbiolo character about it, which, of course, I really like. Acidity is clean and sits well within the wine, and the finish is long with some dusty/chalky tannin. Structure and energy, and also, no shortage of personality. Excellent. – Gary Walsh

Fetherston Estate Nebbiolo 2019 93 Points, The Wine Front

100% nebbiolo sourced from the Malakoff Estate vineyard, Landsborough, Pyrenees.

Wild yeast fermentation, with 60 days on skins total. Matured in 100% French oak (20% new).

“Plenty of perfume of alpine herb, fennel, cherry essence, spice and the like. Medium-bodied, finely etched, spiced strawberry, orange rind and cherry, freshness and dusty tannin grip, and a cool long finish of excellent definition and length. Very nice indeed.”  – Gary Walsh

Fetherston Estate Syrah 2019 93 Points, The Wine Front

100% syrah sourced from the Tibooburra vineyard, Yellingbo, Upper Yarra.

50% whole bunch, cold soak and wild fermentation. Pressed to French oak (20% new) for eight months‘ maturation.

“Whole-bunch aromas/flavours tumble through black cherry, plum, sweet herb and roasted nut flavours. There’s a whole lot of joy to be had here but only if you’re a fan of bunchy, mescal-infused versions of shiraz. The fruit here is alive with freshness, the tannin so grapey it feels (in a positive sense) raw. Smoky, cedarwood oak plays a role here too, and a complementary one. This takes on the bunch-driven style of shiraz with gusto.” – Campbell Mattinson